Luxury Plot Twist: Jewelry's Boom Faces a Fashion Earthquake

This article first appeared on GuruFocus.

Richemont's latest numbers delivered a jolt to the luxury sector. The Swiss group said jewelry sales rose 17% in its fiscal second quarter excluding currency moves, blowing past even the most bullish expectations and reinforcing why high-end pieces have become one of the few dependable bright spots. With gold prices surging almost 60% over the past year and some handbags having doubled in price over the past five, consumers have gravitated toward items that can be worn repeatedly and possibly hold value. That dynamic has lifted names across the category from Richemont's Cartier to LVMH's (LVMHF) Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany while Watches of Switzerland's US arm, where jewelry makes up about 19% of sales, saw a 20% gain in its fiscal first half.

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But investors are starting to weigh what comes next. More than a dozen major fashion houses, including LVMH's Dior and Kering's Gucci, now have fresh creative leadership, and their new products begin hitting stores early next year. If shoppers shift toward bolder apparel and accessories, jewelry's current edge could soften. At the same time, pricing tailwinds are turning into cost pressures. Higher gold prices, tougher currency conditions and US tariffs are feeding through to retail tags: analysts estimate Cartier raised prices by a mid- to high-single-digit percentage this year, Tiffany lifted US prices by 5% in October, and Bulgari increased most US items by 6%, according to Citigroup analysts. If fashion brands manage to land more compelling, better-priced handbags, jewelry's value advantage could start to compress.

China adds another variable. Analysts at TD Cowen say Cartier continues to gain traction there, yet domestic contender Laopu Gold known for heritage-driven designs has outperformed Richemont's stock this year, signaling a market where local preferences are evolving. Even so, top global jewelers still have room to maneuver. By refreshing their icon lines rather than pushing stale designs at higher prices, companies could maintain relevance while managing inflation. Cartier's new flexible Love bangle sold out online at Selfridges and Van Cleef's multi-wear Alhambra pieces illustrate how creative reinvention can support pricing power. RBC Capital Markets expects jewelry and soft luxury to expand at similar rates over the next two years, meaning the next phase of the luxury cycle may reward brands that balance innovation with discipline. For now, the sparkle is intact but the fashion resurgence brewing ahead could be the plot twist investors watch most closely.

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